Advice to a bespoke tailor

by Dennis Howlett on February 19, 2006

English Cut is a poster child for blogging success but they’ve hit a brick wall. Over the weekend marketing and sales partner Hugh McLeod posed a classic question about the next step in scaling a resource constrained business – in this case bespoke tailoring. The question seems simple – having established a strong position in the market and pretty much reached production limits, should we raise prices and restrict output to maximise revenue from core activities while reducing costs – especially international travel?

Here’s an opportunity for all those that want to change their professional business model to one that emphasises value added advisory services. This was my two penn’th on the basis of the limited facts in Hugh’s post:

  • There’s an assumption that labour – the principle cost component – is absolutely constrained. That may not be the case. Indeed, raising prices and creating an air of greater exclusivity could be a attractive. To potential trainees, English Cut could then say: “Come to the only industry with full employment” – if that’s true. that would be a way to scale AND retain exclusivity and so protect the existing price point.
  • The market determines the upper limit on price based on perceived and received value. A bespoke suit is a unique product. Can you therefore restrict output and brand it – as Hugh proposes – to “100 Suits” per annum? I think the comparison he draws between suits and limited edition fine art is risky because the individual nature of each suit might be perceived as alienating a portion of the market. I’d want to test that among existing customers.
  • To date, they’ve sold on value. Would a price hike alienate existing loyal customers unless there is genuine value compensation? If so, would the additional time devoted to customers reap a proportionately greater reward (I feel a spreadsheet coming on at this point!)
  • Hugh claims English Cut products are of a higher quality than competitors who sell at higher prices. That’s subjective. What do customers say? Has EC done a good enough job communicating its values such as will create that additional sense of exclusivity that warrants a price hike?
  • Finally – would travel – a significant cost component – actually fall? I doubt it if EC wants to spend more time with customers.

Professionals know that price is the single most important determinant in profit/cash flow models. Hugh’s thinking seems intuitively right from a supply/demand/price perspective but the theory should be tested. To me, the next step is some sensitivity analysis. And I haven’t talked a single number – yet. What say you? Drop a comment over there. Who knows – you might get a call. Here’s another incentive. Hugh counts among the world’s most influential bloggers for those who operate at the business to business level.

UPDATE:

David Terrar’s already thrown in his 2 penn’orth

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  • What would now be really cool is a cartoon showing how you worked it all out on the empty packs of Marlborough for handing out to all those accountant types. i'm sure the word f*@k is in there somewhere...which has given me another idea.
  • It's only a brick wall if you didn't see it coming, Dennis :)
  • The key question is 'What are customers buying?' Is it a service or a good? If it is a service that happens to have a good attached, then in theory, Hugh's in a strong position, provided customers are willing to pay for an enhanced service AND there is no reasonable substitute.

    This doesn't take into account external factors that might impact demand. I don't for instance know whether historically, there has been a demand constant.
  • Hi Hugh,
    Maybe artificial is the wrong expression, but I simply meant you are planing limiting to 100 in the way an artist would for a limited edition print run. Obviously that's a slightly different type of business decision compared to deciding to only work so many hours producing suits, or deciding not to afford to hire another Saville Row tailor to increase production capacity. I agree that demand and supply need to be managed in their different ways. I still don't think a specfic limit by number, rather than by controlling production capacity of the artisans involved will add value to the brand. So I think the comparisons to an Aston Martin (or Morgan) are more valid than to the art world, and so I'd be advising Thomas to plan taking over the rest of Saville Row.
  • David, who says the limitations are "artificial"?

    I'm not even sure what you mean by "artificial".

    If you decide to only work part-time, is that also "artificial"?

    Both demand and supply have to be managed.
  • Just what I was thinking ;-)
  • Wow - maybe she and Hugh should hook up?
  • Useful article - for my wife. She is a bespoke shoemaker. More at Carre Ducker
  • Dennis,
    Yes - I followed your suggestion and posted my contribution, which is to say that I believe Hugh's strategy is wrong. I don't think you can treat fine tailoring like fine art and artificially limit the supply to 100 number suits a year. The logical extension of this would be the suggestion made by somebody that he does this and auctions the suits to let the market decide. I can see that making an initial splash because it's so different, but not being sustainable. They can raise prices, but that begins to move them away from what you discussed as the core values of the brand - good value, hand made, Saville Row tailored, supervised by Thomas Mahon. Although I guess this really depends on whether Thomas wants a steady lifestyle business, or to become the Richard Branson of hand made, high quality clothes. If It's the latter, then he should be looking to takeover the rest of Saville Row and start some new brands alongside English Cut.
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